Salt level reading

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  • Last Post 07 May 2021
LBurton posted this 22 April 2021

Have a T-cell 15.  Teste and it's good.  Water tested salt level at 3100. Board reads 2000-2100. Have recalibrated board but no luck.  What's next?  New board?  Thanks!

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InyoRob posted this 23 April 2021

Is the right cell selected within the Aquarite control?

After pressing diagnostics, you should get to the following:  

  • 1. Pool temperature (xx degrees Fahrenheit or Celsius) 
  • 2. Cell voltage (xx.x volts) 
  • 3. Cell current (x.xx amps)
  • 4. Desired Output % ("0P" -- "100P" depending on knob position or input from remote pool automation controller) 
  • 5. Instant salinity ( -xxxx ppm or -x.xx grams/Liter) 
  • 6. Product name sent to the pool automation control display ("AL-0" which signifies "Aqua Rite") 
  • 7. Software revision level (r1.xx) 
  • 8. Chlorinator cell type (t-3, t-5, t-9, t-15)  

You want to make sure that the correct cell size is showing and that the cell amps are within range.  

  • T-15 Amp Range: 3.1 – 8.0 amps 
  • T- 9 Amp Range: 2.3 – 6.7 amps 
  • T-5 Amp Range: 1.9 – 5.7 amps 
  • T-3 Amp Range: 1.3 – 4.5 amps

If the right cell is selected and it has tested ok, the next likely cause of the bad reading is the main board.

aabouna posted this 07 May 2021

I have a similar problem with my PureLine 20,000 gallon system in San Diego, CA. It's been on going for years actually. I just gave up on it but thought I'd try again to get it working. Bought new, the system has never worked properly for more than a few months. What's happening now is the same problem as before, which is that the control panel says the salt level is too low and turns off production.

The salt is at 3300, as tested by the pool store and using salt strips, but the control panel says 1400. In the past I beleived the salt was too low and so ended up adding in way too much, putting it over 4200. Since the CYA was also high I changed out 50% of the water last weekend. The CYA and all readings are now good, but the SWG doesn't think so.

Oddly, for a couple days after I changed out the water the SWG was actually working and gave a salt reading of 2400, but now it fluctuates between 0 and 1400. Needless to say the SWG quckly gives the Low Salt and Check Cell warnings, and stops generating. The system is 3.5 years old, and if I didn't have this problem within the first year I'd say it was the cell, or maybe it's always been the cell. The contol panel was in fct defective off the bat that was swapped out under warranty,  The cell looks very clean. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, please?

Service posted this 07 May 2021

Hi aabouna,

It sounds like your Main PCB is bad. I would suggest replacing your Main PCB with this PureLine Crystal Pure Main PCB Board. I think this will fix your issue.

Thank You

Patrick

www.inyopools.com

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