Which Salt Reading?

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  • Last Post 01 June 2018
RonnyS posted this 25 May 2018

My pool salt cell recently failed after 5 years of use.  (no chlorine produced, and error msg on system)  Problem was it convinced me that my salt was low and I added too much.   I did not realize my blunder until I installed the new cell.   I removed water, bringing my level from 4700PPM to 3800PPM (using new salt test strips) Here’s my question:   My Aqua Rite System now says salt is 1900PPM, but also says “salt levels too high/voltage too high”. My test strips say 3800PPM & store tests say the same.  Will the cell kick in when I get levels to 3500PPM or does cell rely on the Aqua Rite reading (which is clearly off)?  

Thinking I may have an Aqua Rite problem instead of a cell problem ..

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RonnyS posted this 26 May 2018

Will do!   Thanks!!!!

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RonnyS posted this 01 June 2018

Some follow up (for users who may have same issues):    I installed a brand new board in my Aqua Plus System.  Immediately, All salt readings were same (3800).   I drained water out of pool and got readings down to 3500 (salt strips confirmed same). System now producing chlorine again.  

I took the old board into my shop and noticed that it, too, had a “burned” solder connection on the back.  Hayward has told me to remove the old solder then “re-solder” it with fresh solder.   I did that, put it back into my system, and nothing changed (still bad).  I noted that all 3 old boards had same burn marks on the back of them.   After researching on Google, another person said they had to replace the Relay that the solder joint connects to.  I bought a $9 new relay and gave it a shot.    Wa La .  It worked!   I now have a backup board ready for when this new one dies !!   I ordered 2 more relays and will do the same with my other old boards!   A $9 part could have saved me $450!!    Seems like a bit of a racquet...

Hope this helps someone else

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InyoRob posted this 25 May 2018

Hello Ronny - Did you reset the average salt level when you replaced the cell? If you did not, check out page 11 of the troubleshooting manual

RonnyS posted this 25 May 2018

Hi ... so sorry ... mine is Aqua Logic not Aqua Rite.   I did follow the diagnostics manual fully and now have new issues.  I think it might be time for another (this is 3rd!) new PCB Board replacement!   (It now reads “low salt” but then also says “too high salt/amps&rdquo.  Thinking about ditching this system & going with a better built brand   Any suggestions there?

InyoRob posted this 25 May 2018

We've heard very few issues with the Pentair Intellichlor. That would be the standalone salt system. They also offer a complete control called the Pentair EasyTouch. 

RonnyS posted this 26 May 2018

Thank you for the help & advice!   I have ordered yet another mother board and will let you know how it goes.   My next step is to go through the failed board to pinpoint the component(s) that keeps failing.   If I can successfully do that .. I have 3 previous boards that can probably be repaired as backups.    I like the concept of having chlorine generator/monitor and built in timers for lights/pump/accessories all in one box ... thus sticking with the older Hayward Aqua Logic for the moment 

InyoRob posted this 26 May 2018

Take a look at the current limiter on the main circuit board. That is a common culprit. It's a flat black disc, about the size of a nickel.

InyoRob posted this 01 June 2018

Thank you for the great feedback, Ronny. I'm sure this will definitely help some pool owners in the future.

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